La Mer de Glace.

Returning to the same place.

Through Doytcheva’s eyes · Seven photographs

Visitors at blue tables on a terrace overlooking the snowy glacier — A moment on the terrace facing the Mer de Glace.

01 / THROUGH DOYTCHEVA’S EYES

The Mer de Glace makes me think of my grandfather first. Because you take the train, and my grandad loved trains.

My grandad’s name was Robert. He was my mum’s dad. So, of course, this place makes me think of her too.

I went up there with my mum for breakfast and to take photographs. We shared other meals there too. They were lovely moments together. This place always brings them back.

It’s also a place of symmetry, a place of beauty. I like going there. Returning to the same place, yet finding it a little different every time.

That’s what I find quite magical about the pleasure of photography: you don’t always need to go far or make things complicated. And that’s calming.

Mountains framed by a train window between two wooden benches — From the carriage.

The curves and crevasses of the Tacul glacier between rock faces — The Tacul glacier.

02 / THE PLACE

Montenvers, facing the Mer de Glace.

From Chamonix, the rack railway reaches Montenvers in around twenty minutes. The route winds through the forest to a viewpoint at 1,913 metres. The Mer de Glace stretches out below, with the Drus and Grandes Jorasses among the surrounding peaks.

You can take in the landscape from the terraces, then, when open, reach the ice cave by gondola. The train, gondola and cave have separate operating schedules: check each one before planning your visit.

Further readingMontenvers train Chamonix tourist office Geological heritage of the Mer de Glace

The Refuge du Montenvers in a vast landscape of snowy mountains — The hotel in winter.

Le Refuge du Montenvers.

ALTITUDE 1 913 M · GPS 45.9334° N / 6.9172° E

Built in 1880 to welcome travellers and mountaineers, the Refuge du Montenvers is a hotel housed in a large granite building. Its regular, window-lined façade faces the mountains. Inside, the wood panelling and the restaurant’s large windows continue that connection with the landscape.

You can come for a meal or book a night. The Montenvers restaurant is in the historic hotel; the Bar des Glaciers offers another place to stop on the site. There is no car access, so arrivals and departures follow the train timetable.

Further readingHistory of the hotel Restaurants Getting there Hut location

Restaurant tables, amber lamps and a snowy mountain beyond the large windows — The mountains from the restaurant.

An aerial view of the red Montenvers train rounding a bend in the forest — The Montenvers train in the forest.

The illuminated windows of the Refuge du Montenvers beneath the mountains at dusk — The hotel at dusk.